August 1996
Hand pruning shears are good for branches up to one-half inch in diameter. Attempting to cut larger branches risks making a poor cut and/or ruining the shears. There are two styles of hand shears: 1) the scissor action; and 2) the anvil cut. In the first, a thin, sharp blade slides closely past a thicker but also sharp blade. In the second style, a sharpened blade cuts against a broad, flat blade. The first one usually costs more, but makes cleaner, closer cuts.
Lopping shears have long handles and are operated with both hands. Even the cheapest can cut one-half inch diameter material. The better ones can slice through branches of two inches or more, depending on species and condition (e.g., pin oak is tougher than linden and dead wood is tougher, until decay sets in, than live wood).
Pole pruners have a cutter with one hooked blade above and a cutting blade beneath. The cutter is on a pole and is operated by a lanyard pulled downward. The poles can either be in sections, that fit together or telescoping and can be made of several materials. Wooden poles are heavy. Aluminum poles are light but can conduct electricity if they touch an overhead wire. Fiber- glass, or some type of plastic compound is probably the best answer. Poles can be fitted with saws, but these usually are very frustrating to use. Use of pole pruners can be dangerous, as material cut overhead can fall on the operator unless it hangs up in other branches. The user should exercise caution and wear head and eye protection.
Manual hedge shears have long, flat blades and relatively short handles, one for each hand. Heavy duty shears with one serrated blade are good for difficult jobs. Power hedge shears are also available. The most common for home use are electric models.
There are many makes and models of hand pruning saws. Fineness of cutting edge is measured in points (teeth per inch). An 8 point saw is for delicate, close work on small shrubs and trees. Average saws are about 5 1/2 to 6 points, while 4 1/2 point saws are for fairly heavy limbs. Folding saws either require a screwdriver (for a slotted-head holding screw) or will have a protruding wingnut which can scar the trunk when a limb is cut. If the saw suddenly folds while in use the operator's fingers can be damaged. A fixed blade saw with a leather scabbard is safer. Blades can be either straight or curved. Many prefer a curved blade that cuts on the draw stroke. A double-edged saw has fine teeth on one side, coarse on the other. These are difficult to use in densely branched plants. Bow saws are good only where no obstruction exists for a foot or more above the area to be cut.
Chain saws come in a variety of sizes, both gas and electric. However, in general, chain saws are not appropriate for pruning of live plant material. They are better suited to tree removal and firewood cutting.
(Prepared by Virginia Nathan, Extension Technician, Consumer Horticulture, Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA 24061-0327.)