Contact: Diane Relf, Extension Specialist, Environmental Horticulture
Posted April 1997
Many people are discovering the pleasure of growing fruits in the home garden. Unfortunately, these plants are often placed in undesirable locations, resulting in poor performance and low yields. Proper site selection is critical if high yields and tasty berries are desired. The ideal site for small fruit production generally is located in full sun, and is gently sloped to promote good air drainage. Soil should be well drained, yet moist and high in organic matter. Irrigation is the most practical watering tool for the home gardener, but if not available, close proximity to a water source is helpful, particularly during dry weather.
The site you choose for any small fruit planting should be free of perennial weeds such as dandelions or quackgrass. These weeds are extremely difficult to remove once the crop is in place; fortunately, several methods are available for eliminating noxious weeds. Repeated cultivation is effective, but time consuming. Black plastic is useful for weed eradication if it is placed over the site the previous year. Glyphosate (Round-up or Kleen-up), a non-selective herbicide, can be applied the previous spring to kill perennial weeds. Read the label and follow the directions carefully before application.
Strawberries
Strawberries grow best in a sunny location on a well-drained, sandy loam soil with a pH of 6.2. However, they can be productive over a broader range of soil types. Strawberries are not tolerant of extremes in pH (less than 5.5 or greater than 7.0), so this should be tested the year prior to planting. A site that has been previously cultivated would be preferable to a new site, but only if tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplants, raspberries, or strawberries have not been grown there before. These crops may leave certain diseases in the soil which will adversely affect strawberry growth. If the site was lawn, be sure there are no grubs infesting the soil. Grubs will quickly eat the roots of the new plants.
Raspberries
The ideal site for raspberries is sunny with sandy loam soil. Fortunately for the home gardener, raspberries tolerate a broad range of soil types. An important requirement, however, is well-drained soil. Do not plant raspberries in sites where water accumulates after a rain, or where the water table is within 4 feet of the soil surface. A common cause of death in raspberries is "wet feet." Selecting a site somewhat higher than nearby land improves drainage and reduces the danger of cold injury and late spring frost. If possible, destroy all wild brambles within 500 feet of your planting, or choose a site far removed from woodlots and old fields to prevent the spread of viral disease from wild plants. As with strawberries, a previously cultivated site is preferable, but only if tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, strawberries, or raspberries have not been grown there previously. If using such a site is impossible, select cultivars with Verticillium wilt resistance.
Blueberries
Locate blueberries in a sunny site on a sandy-peat soil for optimal performance. They will tolerate heavier soils with good aeration and drainage, high organic matter content, and adequate moisture. Few soils are immediately suitable for blueberry cultivation because many have a pH above 5.5. The most important step in growing blueberries is maintaining an acid soil. If the pH of your soil is greater than 5.5, but less than 7.0, you may increase the acidity with applications of sulfur. Your Cooperative Extension office can recommend the amount of these materials needed for your specific soil type. The acidity of the soil will increase very slowly after application, so soil modification should begin at least one year prior to planting.
It is impractical to modify alkaline soils (pH greater that 7.0). A soil test provides specific recommendations for pre-plant fertilization. Select a location with good air drainage, and grow only those cultivars that are hardy to your area.
(Adapted from: Chautauqua Living, Cornell Extension, by Jennifer Shuster, Extension Technician, Consumer Horticulture, and reviewed by Dr. Jerry Williams, Department of Horticulture, Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA 24061-0327.)
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