The Storm-Damaged Landscape after a Disaster

Publication Number 490-329, August 1996

Check List:

Cleanup is the first priority.
Site analysis: If land forms have been altered, these need to be reshaped. Don't allow heavy equipment to move close to trunks of remaining shrubs and trees. Remember that most roots extend well beyond the outer branches; therefore, heavy equipment can damage roots and compact soil.
Tilted plants should be reset and staked.
If portions of uniform plantings, such as hedges, were taken out by the storm, select replacements as close to size as feasible. Don't buy little replacements and prune the remaining plants drastically to make them match. Wait until late winter before pruning to help re-establish uniform size.
Trim partially damaged shrubs and trees as lightly as possible to reshape. Complete reshaping could take several growing seasons. Make a careful decision on this. For example, if one third of a plant is missing, replacement might be a better choice than commitment to "nursing" the plant back into shape with pruning, fertilizing, watering. A damaged plant will be a "shocked" plant.
How much damage is too much damage to warrant replacement? If heavy splitting of bark occurred, exposing the cambium, a plant will probably not survive. Leave woody plants that are doubtful in place and wait. Check periodically by scraping bark lightly to check for green (living) tissue.
Some uprooted plants can be reset if the root ball is fairly intact with a compact root system and white healthy roots are showing and most of the top growth remains.
Prepare remaining plants for overwintering. Mulch with three to four inches of pine straw, peanut hulls, pecan shells, etc. Recent research shows that established shrubs and trees can be given a one-half rate fertilization after the first freeze. For rates, check with your county Extension agent. Don't fertilize newly set plants. Wait until late winter or very early spring just before new growth.
If you plan to hire gardeners to do the repair work, get written bids describing what will be done and at what cost. Contact your county Extension agent if you think the bids are unusually high.
Don't move deciduous plants until after their leaves are off.
Be prepared to deal with possible shortages of some plant materials. If desired plants aren't available, substitutions using plants with similar characteristics and qualities might have to be made. Check with your Extension agent if this becomes a problem; alternative plants can be recommended.
New flower and shrub beds can be established now. When soil is workable, cultivate to a depth of eight to 12 inches. Work in two to three inches of peat moss or compost. Spread 1/2 cup of 5-10-10 or 10-10-10 per square yard of bed area. Don't add fertilizer to planting holes for spring flowering bulbs, however. Some gardeners add a small amount of bonemeal at planting to encourage stronger foliage later.
If extensive replacement is necessary, select some fast-growing shrubs and trees to plant near slower growing selections. After slow-growers become established, faster growing (and perhaps less desirable) plants can be moved or taken out.
Based on information developed by Clemson Cooperative Extension following Hurricane Hugo. Revised for Virginia audiences by Virginia Cooperative Extension.
For more information, contact your local office of Virginia Cooperative Extension.

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