Authors: Paul P. Graham, Extension Specialist, Department of Food Science and Technology, Virginia Tech; N. G. Marriott, Extension Specialist, Department of Food Science and Technology, Virginia Tech; R. F. Kelly, Retired Professor, Department of Food Science and Technology, Virginia Tech
Publication Number 458-223, August, 1998
Historical Background
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Aging Hams
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Today, after more than three centuries of progress, Virginia ham is still considered a superb product because of its distinctive savory taste. For those who want to "do-it-yourself" cure and age a ham that will recapture the delightful flavor so highly cherished by these early clergymen, certain rules must be followed. This publication provides basic steps that can be applied to home curing or commercial operations.
| 1 | "Travels through the Middle Settlements of North America," 1749-1760, 16. |
| 2 | Letter to the Royal Society, May 12, 1688. Tracts and Other Papers Relating Principally to the Origin, Settlement, and Progress of the Colonies in North America to the Year 1776. Compiled by Peter Force. Vol. III, No. 12, 36. |
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Hams for curing should have a long thick cushion (Figure 1), a deep and wide butt face, minimal seam and external fat as seen on the collar (Figure 1) and alongside the butt face (How to Identify a Quality Fresh Ham) and weigh less than 24 pounds. Heavier hams are normally fatter and are more likely to spoil before the cure adjuncts penetrate to prevent deterioration. Therefore, one's capability to control temperature and relative humidity determines the type of ham to cure.
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2 pounds sugar
2 ounces of saltpeter*
Rub the curing mixture into all lean surfaces (Figure 1) of the ham. Cover the skin and fat, but little will be absorbed through these surfaces.
*Obtainable from a drug store.
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Early December is the best time to start curing Virginia style hams under ambient conditions.
During the curing period, keep hams at a temperature of 36° - 40°F.
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In Southeastern Virginia, most hams are smoked to accelerate drying and to give added flavor. The Smithfield ham is smoked for a long time at a low temperature (under 90°F). Wood from hardwood species of trees (trees that shed their leaves in the fall) should be used to produce the smoke. Hickory is the most popular, but apple, plum, peach, oak, maple, beech, ash, or cherry may be used. Pine, cedar, spruce, and other "needle leaf" trees are not to be used for smoking meat since they give off a resin which has a bitter taste and odor.
The fire should be a "cool" smoldering type which produces dense smoke. The temperature of the smokehouse should be kept below 90°F. Hams should be hung in a smokehouse* so that they do not touch each other. They should be smoked until becoming chestnut brown in color, which may take 1-3 days.
Non-smoked Procedure - In Southwest Virginia, the process is to rub 100 lbs. of hams after cure equalization with the following thoroughly mixed ingredients.
| * | Plans for a small smokehouse can be ordered from Department of Food Science and Technology (0418), Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, Virginia 24061. |
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Age hams for 45-180 days at 75-95°F and a relative humidity of 55-65%. Use an exhaust fan controlled by a humidistat to limit mold growth and prevent excessive drying. Air circulation is needed, particularly during the first 7-10 days of aging, to dry the ham surface. Approximately 8-12% of the initial weight is lost.
Cured meat is a good source of food for pests that infest dry-cured meats. The insects attracted to cured meat are the cheese skipper, larder beetle, and red-legged ham beetle. Mites, which are not insects, also may infest cured meats.
Recommended prevention includes starting the curing and aging during cold weather when these insects are inactive. Proper cleaning of the aging and storage areas is essential since the cheese skipper feeds and breeds on grease and tiny scraps of meat lodged in cracks. Cracks should be sealed with putty or plastic wood after cleaning. Screens should be installed to prevent entrance - especially of flies, ants and other insects that carry mites. Double entry doors are recommended to reduce infestation of insects.
After cleaning and sealing cracks, a surface spray should be applied to the floor so that the thin layer of insecticide will kill crawling insects. Spray aging rooms once every three months with a pyrethrin spray to reduce infestation. FOLLOW MIXING AND APPLICATION DIRECTIONS ON THE PESTICIDE LABEL. Synergized pyrethrins may be applied with a paint brush if the room is stocked with meat. If applied as a spray, remove all meat products from the storeroom before spraying all surfaces on which houseflies and other pests are likely to crawl. Allow the spray to dry before any meat is returned to the store room.
If any product becomes infested after precautions have been taken, it should be removed from the storeroom and the infested area should be trimmed. The trim should be deep enough to remove larvae that have penetrated along the bone and through the fat. The uninfested portion is safe to eat, but should be prepared and consumed promptly. The exposed lean of the trimmed areas should be protected by greasing it with salad oil or melted fat to delay molding or drying.
Protect the hams by placing a barrier between the meat and the insects. Heavy brown grocery bags with no rips or tears in them are ideal to use for this purpose.
As shown in Figures 5-7, place the ham in a bag and fold and tie the top. Then, place the bagged ham in a second bag, fold and tie as shown. The hams wrapped by this method can be hung in a dry, cool, protected room to age. This room should be clean, tight, and well ventilated.
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The traditional 4-step method is to: (1) Wash ham with a stiff bristled brush, removing as much of the salt as possible. (2) Place the ham in a large container, cover with cold water, and allow it to stand 10-12 hours or overnight. (3) Lift the ham from the water and place it in a deep kettle with the skin side up and cover with fresh, cold water. (4) Cover the kettle, heat to a boil, but reduce heat as soon as the water boils. Simmer 20 to 25 minutes per pound until done.
Another method of cooking is to soak, scrub, and place the ham in a covered roaster, fat side up. Then, pour 2 inches of water into the roaster and place it in a 325°F oven. Cook approximately 20 to 25 minutes per pound. Baste frequently. Cook to an internal temperature of 155°F as indicated by a meat thermometer placed in the thickest position of the ham cushion. If you do not have a meat thermometer, test for doneness by moving the flat (pelvic) bone. It should move easily when ham is done.
Lift ham from kettle. Remove skin. Sprinkle with brown sugar and/or bread crumbs and brown lightly in a 375°F oven, or use one of the suggested glazes.
Orange Glaze: Mix 1 cup brown sugar, juice and grated rind of one orange, spread over fat surface. Bake until lightly browned in a 375°F oven. Garnish with orange slices.
Mustard Glaze: Mix 1\4 cup brown sugar, 2 teaspoons prepared mustard, 2 tablespoons vinegar and 1 tablespoon water. Spread over fat surface and bake as directed above.
Spice Glaze: Use 1 cup brown sugar and 1 cup juice from spiced peaches or crab apples. Bake as directed above. Garnish with the whole pickled fruit.
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Broiling: Score fat edges and lay on broiler rack. Place 4 inches from broiler and broil for specified time, turning only once.
Frying: Trim the skin off the ham slices. Cut the outer edge of fat in several places to prevent it from curling during cooking. Place a small amount of fat in a moderately hot skillet. When it has melted, add ham slices. Cook ham slowly, turning often. Allow about 10 minutes total cooking time for thin slices. Remove ham from pan and add a small amount of water to raise the drippings for red-eye gravy. To decrease the salty taste, fry ham with a small amount of water in the skillet.
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Sliced ham sandwiches made from Virginia ham are very tasty. Take your choice of breads and extras, but be sure the ham flavor comes through. Ham biscuits are a special treat. Serve thinly sliced ham in a crusty biscuit - large biscuits for family meals; dainty ones for a tea table.
Or make a ham salad filling by grinding cooked ham. Flavor with finely chopped celery, onion, and/or pickle. Moisten with mayonnaise or salad dressing.
Scraps of cooked ham may be added to scrambled eggs for added flavor. Use the bone and meat adhering to it to flavor a pot of beans or split pea soup.
HAM LOAF OR CROQUETTES
| 2 eggs | 1 Tbsp. grated or finely chopped onion |
| 2-3 cups ground cooked ham | 1 cup milk (reserve 1/2 cup) |
| 1 1/2 cups bread crumbs | |
| Beat eggs slightly. Add other ingredients. Pack into baking pan. Sprinkle with remaining 1/2 cup bread crumbs. Bake in a 350°F oven for 45 minutes. Or form into 6 croquettes, roll in 1/2 cup crumbs, and brown in a small amount of hot fat. | |
| CREAMED HAM DELUXE | |
| 1 Tbsp. ham fat, butter, or margarine | 4 Tbsps. flour |
| 1 Tbsp. chopped onion | 21/2 cups milk |
| 2 cups ground, cooked ham (meat from hock may be used) | |
| Place fat in heavy frying pan, add onion, and cook until onion is tender but not brown. Add ham, stir, and heat. Add flour, stir and cook about one minute. Add milk, 1/2 cup at a time, stirring constantly. Cook until mixture thickens. Serve on waffles, hot biscuits, corn sticks, or toast. | |
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