24 Ways to Kill a Tree
Author: Bonnie Appleton, Extension Specialist, Hampton Roads AREC
Publication Number: 430-210, November 2007
Few residential trees die of “old age.” Mechanical damage and improper tree care kill more trees
than any insects or diseases. Avoid making the tree-damaging mistakes shown in the diagram
below. Few of these items alone would kill a tree, but multiple problems will certainly stress, and
could eventually kill, a tree.
- “Top” tree to encourage watersprouts that weaken tree and encourage
pests.
- Leave co-dominant leaders to encourage “V” growth and splitting
during winds and storms.
- Leave crossing branches to rub protective bark and create
wounds.
- Ignore insect or disease damage.
- Coat pruning cuts with paint or sealer to slow healing
and promote pest problems.
- Leave broken branches unpruned to encourage pests.
- Spray unapproved herbicides over tree root area
to weaken tree.
- Damage roots and trunk with lawn equipment.
- Rip through roots when digging trenches.
- Plant close to house or obstacle to
reduce adequate tree and root growing space.
- Attach items to tree to damage bark and
girdle branches with wire and rope.
- Prune randomly to leave branch “stubs.”
- Prune flush cuts to reduce wound closure.
- Leave tree staked until guy wire girdles trunk.
- Leave wrap on to constrict trunk growth and
rot bark.
- Pile up excessive mulch to encourage rodent
damage and bark rot.
- Put non-porous black plastic under mulch.
- Stack items atop roots to cause soil
compaction.
- Leave ball roping on to girdle trunk.
- Plant near downspout to assure
excessive water or water lightly to
encourage shallow root growth.
- Leave top of wire basket in place to
girdle roots.
- Leave treated or synthetic burlap on to
prevent root growth.
- Dig hole too narrow and over amend backfill to
discourage proper root spread.
- Dig hole too deep or fill with gravel to collect
water and drown roots.
How NOT to Kill a Tree
- Do not top trees. Tree heights can be lowered
by proper crown reduction that doesn’t stimulate
watersprout production.
- When a tree is young, select one or the other of the
competing upright branches to be the main branch
and cut the other off.
- Remove branches that cross and rub in order to
prevent bark wounds.
- Monitor for insects and diseases and treat
appropriately if they are found.
- Do not use anything to cover pruning cuts or wounds– trees seal their own wounds.
- Cut broken branches off at the branch bark collar.
- Spray the lawn with herbicides that will not damage
trees.
- Mulch around the tree to avoid hitting the tree
trunk with lawn or edging equipment and to protect
surface roots.
- Dig around roots whenever possible but when not,
make a clean pruning cut on the tree side of the
root.
- Know how big a tree will grow (height and width)
and space accordingly away from houses and other
obstacles.
- Insert a nail or screw into your tree to which a wire
or line can be attached. The tree will seal around
the small wound made by the nail or screw.
- Cut branches back to laterals so you don’t leave stubs
to which the branches will die back.
- Do not make flush cuts. Cut on the outside of the
branch bark collar.
- Stakes generally aren’t needed on small residential
trees, but if they are, remove them after one year to
avoid any damage.
- Do not wrap the trunk with anything except a wide
wire cage if animals are a problem.
- Do not put mulch in contact with the trunk, and then
pile mulch only 2 to 3 inches over the roots.
- Do not put any type of fabric or plastic material
under your mulch.
- Do not stack items atop the roots; it causes soil
compaction.
- Take the ball roping off around the tree trunk.
If the tree is in a container, remove the container
before planting.
- Divert water from the roots of trees that don’t
like wet soil, but when you water, water deeply to
encourage deep root growth.
- Remove the top horizontal round of wire from the
basket. It is not necessary to remove the entire
basket.
- Remove the burlap, regardless of type, from atop the
ball and down several inches on the ball side. It is
not necessary to remove all the burlap.
- Dig the hole at least twice as wide as the root
system to encourage lateral root growth out of the
root ball. Do not amend backfill for individual tree
holes. Only amend if the entire planting area can be
equally amended.
- Dig your hole only as deep as the root system and
do not put gravel in the bottom of the planting hole
unless you install a drain to actively pull extra water away.
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